Marseille has been around for two and a half millennia and hasn’t quite had a quiet moment since. The oldest city in France has been known, rather infamously, for its anarchy, gangland killings and police corruption until five years ago ... in 2013 it took a stab at culture and blew up over half a trillion euros to straighten, shape and spruce itself up — declared the European Capital of Culture, it set up world-class museums, designer hotels, cultural centres, galleries, chic eateries and shops and such other urban renewals.

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The heart of the port city is Vieux Port with its splendid marina that harbours hundreds of boats and yachts. The products of the Mediterranean are caught and chaffed at cafes that dot the marina’s periphery. Further out the Corniche studs jewel-box-like villas from where once the owners could see their ships sail. Museums and galleries are aplenty but if your interests are living art then trudge along Le Panier (where the Greeks originally founded the city in 600 BC) for street art to be found in all its alleys, nook and cranny. It’s a great place to experience serendipity and soak in the atmosphere. For a little excursion within the city climb up to Notre-Dame-de-la-Garde. Topped by a 33-foot Virgin-and-Child statue covered in gold leaf, the basilica is seen from everywhere in Marseille and is itself all-seeing. Marseillais call their Virgin 'La bonne Mère’ and rely on her to forgive their very many sins ... for sins, this city yet does.

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Today for the culture vultures Marseille offers much to fill a few delightful days.

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